In Catania they are called arancini, in the masculine form. There is no discussion about this. In the Sicilian-Italian dictionary of Giuseppe Biundi, who was from Palermo, the term “arancinu” appears. It was 1857: history, perhaps, proves the people of Catania right. Of course, the Accademia della Crusca prefers the feminine, but that doesn’t mean they will change their minds.
Arancini are eaten at all hours, like all self-respecting street food. Anyone who goes to Sicily knows that they will have to give in to the temptation to taste this exquisite ancestor of fast food. They are round just like oranges, but when you bite them their taste explodes in your mouth: rice, ragù, tomato, stringy cheese.
Inside there is a bit of Arabia, a bit of France, a bit of Spain, a bit of Greece, but above all the richness of flavors of Sicily. Variations include arancini with butter (bechamel and ham), “alla norma” (aubergines and tomato), spinach or pistachio.
There are many stories about their origin: from Arab domination to Dominican convents where it seems they were served as a house specialty. There are those who think it is simply a creative way to recycle leftovers in popular cuisine or an easy meal to take with you to the countryside. But what does it matter? The result is still exquisite. The arancini offered by Dora are small, like the palm of her hand, and so good that one leads to another.
Ingredients
for the veal ragout:
- Veal belly 1.2 kg
- Tomato puree 2.4 kg
- Shelled peas 100 gr
- Finely chopped onion
- Extra virgin olive oil
- salt
- Pepper
For the rice
- Carnaroli rice 400g
- 2 liters vegetable broth
- Butter 1 tbsp
- Parmigiano Reggiano DOP 1 tbsp
- Extra virgin olive oil
- Finely chopped onion
For the arancini
- Provola cheese cut into cubes 500 g
- Breadcrumbs 500 g
- Remilled durum wheat semolina 500 g
- Vegetable oil (e.g. peanut)
Method
Procedure for the ragù
Let’s start with the ragù filling, which must be fresh and, if necessary, can be prepared a day in advance. After carefully washing the onion, heat a thin layer of olive oil in a deep pan to cover only the bottom of the pan. Carefully sauté the chopped onion in the olive oil, over low heat, without burning it.
Cut the meat into cubes and brown the pieces in the pan until they are lightly coloured. Then add the tomato sauce. The sauce must be concentrated, so cook it slowly, covered and over low heat, for at least three hours so that it reaches the right consistency to fill the arancini. Ten minutes before removing the sauce from the heat, add a handful of fresh or frozen peas, salt and pepper to taste. Let it cool and then separate the meat from the sauce: it will be easier to fill the arancini at the end.
Procedure for rice:
Bring a pan with the vegetable broth to the boil and leave to cook over a low heat for the entire duration of the preparation. In a saucepan, heat enough olive oil to just cover the bottom of the pan. Sauté the chopped onion in the olive oil over low heat. Incorporate all the rice and then add a ladle of boiling vegetable broth at a time, letting the rice absorb the liquid. Continue until the rice is al dente (about 12-15 minutes). Finally, add the butter and parmesan and mix well. Spread the rice on a baking tray and let it cool. If you have leftover risotto, it can be a great alternative.
Procedure for the arancini:
Cover your palm with a layer of rice. Place 1-2 tablespoons of sauce, some pieces of meat and two cubes of provola on top, close the rice around the center and create a ball. It is important that the rice completely covers the filling. Mix semolina with water to create a smooth batter. Use an amount of water that allows you to reach a sticky consistency, which is necessary to ensure that the batter sticks to the shaped rice balls. Dip the rice balls in the batter and then coat them in the breadcrumbs.
At this point the arancini can be frozen and stored in the freezer for a maximum of one month. To fry the arancini, whether fresh or directly frozen, prepare the fryer (follow the instructions supplied with your model) and heat the vegetable oil to 180°C.
Fry until the arancini have a slightly golden colour, remove them from the fryer and let them rest for at least 10 minutes. Before serving them, fry them a second time until the breadcrumbs have reached the right golden brown. The second frying ensures that the heart of the arancini is well heated.
